Sunday, November 22, 2009

Shanghai and Beijing

Wednesday, November 18

Beijing, China

Hey everyone! I’m sitting in the Beijing airport waiting for my flight to Shanghai. What the heck am I doing in Beijing? Tagging along with President Obama of course! Actually, I’m here visiting NI-China’s distributor as well as the Beijing office. I arrived yesterday evening around nine, worked this morning and am now heading back. Obama is the talk of the town. Yesterday he visited the Forbidden City and today is supposed to be at the Great Wall. It’s funny to listen to people speak in Chinese about it:

Zhou kua suo fa shang wei chang xia lei haibo hai guan ling Obama!

He was supposed to tie up traffic on my way to the airport today but apparently he’s not leaving until tonight so we (Apple and I) arrived in half an hour with plenty of time for my flight back to Shanghai.


Before I get into the particulars of the past few days, let’s chat about China. First of all, I think by only visiting Shanghai and Beijing, it would be like visiting only New York City and Washington, DC to get an idea of what all of the US is like so view everything I’m writing with that in mind. Anyway, the first impression that I got of the joint is that it is the country most like the US that I have visited. This sounds paradoxical with the whole Communism thing but I’m serious. There are Fords and Dodge cars on the road (no trucks but still). There are huge advertisements everywhere. There are big huge well-maintained freeways that get you around pretty well. Tons of multinational companies we all know and love are here in force: McDonald’s, Starbucks, KFC (yes, KFC), Papa John’s (pronounced ‘Papa Jones’, eh) and many others. The clothes people wear wouldn’t really look out of place in the US. Heck, I even saw an advertisement for the NBA in the Shanghai subway and it didn’t feature Yao Ming. It just feels the closest to home I’ve ever been, except for a few things:

1. Everybody speaks Chinese. It’s a strange language to hear and see. How the heck do they memorize so many characters? How do they know exactly how to say certain words? You have to say them just right. It’s tough. I had to have William show me how you text in Chinese because I was so fascinated by the concept. It’s not unlike the word help function on US phones where you type ‘he’ and it might suggest ‘hello’. You type in something like ‘xie’ and the phone will suggest Chinese characters to use. It seems like a pain to me but they obviously think it’s great. I tried to understand how they got by in the age of the typewriter but I’m been jet-lagged and had a lot of information to process so I’m still not sure.
Here is the list of useful phrases I picked up while I was here:
Yes – xie (shee-ah)
No – puh xie
Thank you – xie xie
Good Morning – zhao shang hao
Hello – ni hao
Enjoy your meal – zhu ni wei kou hao (literally, bless your stomach)
Excellent! – fei chang hao
Whatever – wu suo wei
And actually the words can have multiple different characters in written Chinese (i.e. it’s not that simple.

2. The food is different. Duh. I mean, way different. Take your favorite Chinese restaurant and amp it up about thirty times. The NI folks here have made it their mission for me to try as many Chinese dishes as possible so I’ve had the following so far: sea slug, roast duck, sweet and sour pork, sweet rice, not sweet rice, all manner of pork, alll manner of shrimp, salad, fried meatballs, egg noodles, and gosh knows how much else. Actually, looking back on that list it doesn’t seem too outlandish but seriously it’s been mind-blowing. Eating a variety of food has been easier due to everybody eating family style and ordering way more food than we can eat. I’m not too bad with chopsticks (though my skill has sadly not improved since my arrival) and that can make eating a challenge. I try my best not to have to be reduced to a knife and fork. With famiy style you just reach into whatever bowl with your chopsticks you want. Sometimes you have a second set of chopsticks to reach in with and a second set to eat with (i.e. put your lips on) but not always (I forget to use the ‘clean’ chopsticks a lot). I think the most outlandish food was the sea slug (which was quite possibly the greasiest thing I’ve ever attempted to eat).



3. The taxi drivers, at least in Shanghai, are insane. Well, they wouldn’t seem insane if everybody drove like crazy like in India. But it seems that most people drive somewhat normally, meaning the taxi drivers stand out. Here are some examples: imagine you’re on a two-lane road needing to make a left hand turn but there’s no room due to all the oncoming traffic. No problem, just stick your nose right in and go. Need to make a u-turn where there’s no room? Stick your nose in. Need to cut somebody off? Go for it. My favorite is when they sit behind someone who is only going moderately fast, tailgate them and flash their lights at them until the poor guy moves over. They drive twice as fast as everyone else it seems and, get this, there are no seatbelts. None. Not only should there be seatbelts, there should be shoulder straps. Even the NI designated drivers who ferry NI employees around in minivans exhibit these tendencies except in a way they’re funny because you’re in a minivan that resembles a Plymouth Voyager while these things are happening.
4. Speaking of hogging the road, the interplay between all of the users of roads is quite interesting. The users are taxis, normal cars, electric bicyclists, normal bicyclists and pedestrians. You know how when you go hiking on a mountain bike trail hikers are supposed to yield to mountain bikers? Well, in China everyone yields to everyone. It’s weird. Like when you need to cross the street, quite often you just go and make the cars that are coming weave around you a bit or come to a complete stop. Our taxi in Beijing today stopped on the freeway, in the rightmost lane, so I could take a photo of the Bird’s Nest, despite my protestations of ‘puh xie’ (NO!). People just manuevered around us. Electric bicyclists ignore traffic signals and go wherever the heck they want, sometimes yielding to others on the road and sometimes not. I saw a bus just stick its nose out into traffic, making the traffic come to a dead stop. I explained how strange this was to me to Apple. Her response was that well, if you don’t stick your nose out, you’ll be waiting forever. Whatever works. The important thing is that people expect to be cut off and not yielded for. At least there were no motorcycles on the sidewalk (a feature of Seoul).

Doh, flight’s been delayed for a couple of hours due to the plane being delayed at whatever airport it’s coming from. Joy.

Um, so let’s get back to our timeline. I had a Sunday morning breakfast in one of the two restaurants in the building complex that the hotel is part of. Usually breakfast buffets for business travelers are all the same one but this one had a decidedly Chinese flavor to it. The offerings were semi-fried rice (with peas and bits of egg), egg rolls, boiled circular eggs, omelettes, soggy hash browns, noodles, several other Chinese dishes along with the old mainstays of fresh fruit, white bread and cereal. I usually have had the rice, potato item (either hash browns, french fries or chopped potatoes) and some canteloupe.

So William (Zhinhua) and Bruce (Xi) from the office picked me up in the lobby around 9am. Why are they called William and Bruce? Well, do you know how to pronounce ‘Zhinhua’ and ‘Xi’? Me neither and even if I tried Chinese is too precise for English-speakers to get the pronunciation exactly right. In essence, the Chinese have given up teaching us and thus choose American names. The fun part is that the sky’s the limit for them. Here are some of the names I’ve seen that I haven’t mentioned before:
- Nancy
- Christina
- Keith
- Nick Wu (a 50-something bellhop in the Beijing hotel)
- Show
- ZX (because his name is Zhixiang which no one in the US can pronounce)
- Leon
- Denver
- Ferrari
Apple picked her name because it’s the name she uses as an online alias. She had to do it on the first day she had joined at NI. One of my favorites is Ye Yan whose ‘English’ name is Yuki which I think is actually Japanese. For the longest time we in Trade Compliance didn’t know if Ye and Yuki were the same person and, if they were, what her real name was. Actually, we didn’t even know Yuki/Ye was a she until Barry and Doug visited last December. Anyway, I think the process should also work in reverse and I get to pick a Chinese name. Hao Beck has a nice ring to it.

As an aside, we in Austin routinely mangle the names of the Hungarians as well though we’re not as far off. For example, Balázs is pretty much pronounced ‘bol-ahj’ but we say ‘bah-laj’ or ‘bal-ahsh’. The Taiwanese are the only other ones I’m aware of who use alternate names but surprisingly the Japanese and Koreans don’t. However, Japanese names like Masahiro, Masanobu, Eiko, Shokichi, Hatsue and Yoko and Korean ones like Jun, Chu, Wonjun and Kyunghee are easier for us to pronounce.

Saturday, November 21

Austin, Texas, USA

Oops, the laptop ran out of power in the Beijing airport and this is the first real opportunity I’ve had to continue the dialogue.

Anyway, so William and Bruce snagged a taxi and we drove from the outskirts of the city where the branch office is located and headed into town. Shanghai is a big city. The metropolitan area has around 16 million people. Though to be fair, New York City’s metro area has almost 20 million. The list is here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_metropolitan_areas_by_population

The ride in the taxi was fairly uneventful though I was surprised by how poor a condition some of the roads we had to travel on were due to construction. It was like the construction crews decided to shut down the whole highway without making much in the way of provisions for where the cars would actually go. If I had been driving, I wouldn’t have known what the heck to do without following everybody else through potholes, unseen dips and without lane markers. Guess that’s why I was taking a cab, eh!

Our first stop was Yuyuan Garden, an old luxurious garden complex from the 1500s I think smack in the middle of Shanghai. Bruce and William gave me some background on it as we wound our way through the old buildings. You’ll have to see the photos; it was pretty neat. The interesting part was that it was supposed to be a tranquil place to get away from the city and indeed, you couldn’t hear or really see the city from inside. But it was packed with tourists, both from China and from abroad. This was where I first encountered the ‘tour group’. Unlike tour groups in say, Washington, D.C., where everyone has to wear the same shirt, you can distinguish them by the people following the person holding up a little flag on a little pole and sometimes speaking with a microphone and portable speaker. It was kind of fun to guess what nationality the people were and then wait for someone in the group to start talking in order to let me know if I was right.



There was also an exhibit of old paintings made in the simple style with apparently pencil or something like it and few colors. I’m more appreciative of sculpture and really detailed paintings of landscapes but some of these paintings were also of the caliber that made me stop and take them in for more than a few seconds. There were also a lot of large examples of calligraphy, usually a 2’ x 5’ piece of paper with maybe four Chinese characters on it. Bruce and William explained how people competed to make their characters look the best. Unfortunately, I wasn’t really able to tell how they were better so I took their word for it, eh.

After finding our way through the maze-like gardens and out, we wandered through a shopping area and stopped to see a little exhibition. It was actually a little stage like you might see at a puppet show except that four people at a time could sit right in front of it and look through peepholes. The MC would announce what was going on in the pictures that flashed in front of you. Of course, he was speaking Chinese so I was forced to surmise what the heck was going on. Part of the content was a bit obscene but I have to assume it was quite humorous.

Bruce and William asked if I wanted a coffee. Still going on perhaps 24 hours with no sleep, I was game. Still being jet-lagged, it took me a second to realize we were walking into a Starbucks. I feel uncomfortable walking into Starbucks in the US since, as a non-coffee drinker (except for meetings where I’m worried I might fall asleep), I feel like everyone in there can tell and is secretly mad at me for invading their space. Walking into a Chinese Starbucks felt exactly the same way since it looked and felt almost exactly the same except for the fact that the menu was in both English and Chinese (too bad I didn’t get the Chinese word for ‘vente’, eh!).

What also made it strange though was the fact that the store was set up like it was Christmastime already even though it was only November 15. Christmas music was playing, there were Christmas signs all over and I think my raspberry-flavored mocha has something holidayish about it but I don’t remember what it was. I commented about the fact that Christmas was still a ways away and William replied, “Well, we like Christmas.” Thinking on it now, they don’t have Thanksgiving to act as a kind of speed bump on the way to Christmas so full-speed ahead. Still, I wouldn’t want Fox News host Bill O’Reilly to have walked in at that point with all of his concern over Christmas turning into a totally non-religious holiday. Don’t visit China Bill!

There were other run-ins with Christmas on the trip but by far the strangest was when China Airlines decided to play Christmas music (I think it was ‘Walking in a Winter Wonderland’) while we were deplaning in Beijing.

The next stop was lunch. We took a cab over to another shopping area in the center of the city and ate at a very nice little lunch spot. This was my first experience with eating Chinese-style or at least what happened for every meal on the trip that I ate with Chinese people. Bruce and William ordered everything (I don’t remember if they asked me what I wanted; they probably did and regardless I would have told them anything they chose was fine) and soon the plates and bowls of food started showing up. Lots of plates and bowls. I would eat something off of one and another would show up. It didn’t take long to run out of room so that the waitstaff would take away one plate with food still on it and bring the same food back but on a smaller plate. Due to the jet lag unfortunately my appetite was not what it should have been and so there was a lot left over. At later meals I found out that even when my appetite was ravenous there was still leftover food so now I don’t feel so bad. The only thing I can feel bad about was having a tough time eating the first course, some Sichuan shrimp that were pretty hot (though with some well-timed gulps of Coke I was ok); I think I may have scared them that the American they were entrusted with was going to hate Chinese food because of its spiciness. I don’t think I had anything else that was remotely hot the rest of the trip.

I struggled to stay awake during lunch, at least after the Sichuan shrimp, but held on. That reminds me; in China they aren’t as liberal with heaters as we Americans are. In many of the restaurants and the entire first floor of my hotel in Shanghai, it was cold enough that you needed a jacket. In the hotel restaurant, my table was next to a door to the outside that was partially open, allowing the wind to come whistling in. It wasn’t cold enough to be uncomfortable most of the time but a jacket was still necessary so, at least in that regard, the Chinese are better at saving energy than we are, eh! And there were definitely no Chile-style examples of freezing your tail off indoors (for those who remember Jennifer and my trip to Chile in winter where our only heat, when available, was a small wood-burning stove).

The next stop was the location of the first meeting of the Communist Party or, as it’s officially called, the Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party of China. It is a small two-story building and, from what I can tell, the meeting was probably done in secret. There were a lot of historical signs in the building but I didn’t feel like there was much to describe the actual meeting, what they were talking about, etc. There were also a lot of guards walking around in military uniforms so it was actually a little strange to get into a conversation about politics with Bruce and William. We discussed the fact that China is now pretty much a capitalist country economically but politically still communist or at least communist in theory. We would stop the conversation whenever we got near a guard which was weird weird weird. That was when they confirmed for me that the reason I couldn’t access Facebook.com was because the Chinese government blocks it. Two other sites Chinese people can’t access are YouTube and Blogspot where Jennifer and I have our travel blog. Weird weird weird. Actually, it was a little creepy.

The big highlight of the building was a representation of the meeting with wax figures. I didn’t recognize Mao Zedong at first because he had a full head of hair back then (the meeting was held in 1921). I suppose it was the Chinese equivalent of the Constitutional Convention or the Continental Congress although there weren’t any advisors from the Soviet Union at either of those. Next door we also saw a room of some sort where for whatever reason I wasn’t allowed to take a photo (the guard was very nice about it though); I should remember what was special about it but time and jet lag prevent me.



Going back to creepy, here’s what Travel China Guide says about the wax figures:

“In addition, a waxworks hall inside vividly reproduces the scene of this significant meeting. The other twelve members listen and smile as Mao Zedong, founder of the PRC, makes his speech. Lifelike, the wax figures seem to make time stand still, bringing people back to that exciting moment.”

Moving on, we cut through a small park with a cute pond. In front of the pond was a wedding party with the bride, groom and attendants getting photos taken. I absolutely love seeing weddings in other countries because it is truly an event that regardless of culture everyone can feel connected to. The bride was wearing a big white dress just like any American bride would be and the men were wearing tuxes. Even though I had never met them I felt that just by seeing them I was sharing in their happiness. Bruce, William and I stood there for about thirty seconds just to watch.

It had been hazy all day but around that point it started to drizzle. None of us had brought umbrellas. Oh well. We caught a cab and headed to the Huangpu River, an enormous river that cuts through the center of town. To my excitement, we were going to take a pedestrian ferry across the river. We ditched the cab and waited for the boat. Waiting with us were tons of pedestrians as well as a handful of people on electric bicycles, actual bicycles and motorcycles. Everybody crowded together but not too closely and I was wondering whether I needed to worry about getting out of the way of the motorcyclists. Turns out I didn’t but it was weird as we were getting off the ferry that they were weaving in and out of us pedestrians.

Our next stop was the Shanghai World Financial Center, a 100 story building with apparently the highest observation deck in the world. We were going to the top, baby. I wasn’t enthused as there aren’t really any 95th, 96th, 97th, 98th or 99th floors, just a big open space that makes the building look kind of like a key stuck in the ground. I’m not a big fan of heights and I know how much buildings sway. We took an elevator to the 94th floor, needing to take an escalator and then another elevator to the 100th. I told Bruce and William that I would stay on the 94th floor and wait for them to come back down. They convinced me to go up by pointing out that most likely they would go down via a different elevator and I would have to meet them on the ground floor. Faced with the choice of either standing on the top floor of the building or temporarily losing contact with the people who were helping me around Shanghai, I laughingly decided I’d go with the former. We hit the elevator for the 100th floor.



When we reached the 100th floor, I actually felt ok. It was an enclosed hallway with a ton of people in it. The walls were glass but the floor was mostly solid with a bunch of glass panels in the middle for those who wanted to stand on them (I eventually did). The view was pretty good as you could see for at least several miles. Due to the haze, however, we couldn’t see too far but still the view we had was quite good. It was at that point I also realized that the worst part of going up had been the elevator ride from the 1st to 94th floor (it took about a minute I think while the elevator made a Star Trek-type noise every time you passed a floor).

After hanging out up there for maybe ten minutes, we headed back down to the 93rd floor which featured another observation deck as well as a gift kiosk. Actually, the overwhelming part of the room was the big screen featuring Haibao, the mascot for the Shanghai World Expo 2010. You can google the expo if you want but Haibao is now my new favorite buddy. Strange mascots for worldly events like the Olympics and World Cup are always fascinating.

Gotta love Wikipedia. Here are some good lists:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FIFA_World_Cup_mascot
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympic_mascot

After that, we headed down to the first floor again where I was finally, finally able to find some dental floss in a convenience store. Then we caught a taxi and went to a mall overlooking the river to eat dinner with Apple from NI-Shanghai also. The mall was where I learned about personal space in China. We had to wait like five minutes for an elevator and when one finally came everyone just crammed in. I mean crammed in. Like your hands were touching other people crammed. As Apple explained later though “If you don’t cram in not everyone will be able to get on.” Personally, I think the country needs more elevators.

The dinner was fantastic with a great view of the river and a ton of food. I kept myself awake by regaling the three of them with long travel stories which they got a kick out of. Having a coke also helped. I was unable to eat at my normal level again unfortunately but I was able to try everything, including the sea slug.

On the way back, we took the subway. I love taking the subway because that’s how you really see who the people are in a city. In the Shanghai subway, I got to see everybody alright. On a really personal level. Like my hand was forced to touch someone’s butt for two legs of the trip. But again, if you don’t do that not everyone will make it to the next station. At least there were no subway workers running around pushing people into the train to make them fit like I’ve been told are in Japan. Apple got off at the second to last stop while Bruce, William and I rode it to the end of the line, caught a cab and went to my hotel where I was dropped off. Time for some shuteye.

I woke up at 5:30am, two hours early, but 6.5 hours of sleep is better than no sleep. I walked the half mile to work, had a full day and then was taken by taxi to dinner at a Papa John’s restaurant (complete with tables and waitresses) to have dinner with Apple. The NI-Shanghai folks realized that although I was game to eat Chinese food, I’d also been on the road a while and wouldn’t mind some comfort food. They knew I’d eaten pizza on my first night so thought that Papa John’s would be a good idea. And it was. The tomato and pepperoni pizza was pretty good as well as the garden salad and buffalo wings (I was able to plow through all but two pieces of the pizza which I ate for a midmorning snack the next day). Papa John’s was in the Christmas mood too but that didn’t detract from the food at all.

One other note about eating in China: the waitstaff would keep your order at the table, either on top of it or on a little shelf underneath. Then, whenever they bring some food item out, they pull out the order, check it off the list and put it back where it was. Makes it easier to keep track of stuff I guess.

Apple and I caught a taxi which then dropped her off first. It was then just me and the taxi driver. I knew what general direction my hotel was in, figured I’d recognize it and besides we’d given the driver the address. Therefore it was to my surprise when the driver asked me, as we were getting close and using hand gestures, whether he should turn right or not. How should I know? Ugh. I took a good guess and said no, then yes at the next street. Turned out I was right. If I had been wrong, well, that’s why NI-Shanghai loaned me a Chinese cell phone for the week to call someone if things go awry. I was a little proud of myself though.

Slept maybe seven hours that night, packed up my stuff the next morning and went into the office for a ¾ day of work. Apple and I were heading to Beijing that evening for a meeting with the distributor so we left the office around 4 (two hours early as the branch works from 9-6). We took a company van to the subway station, then the subway to the end of the line and then a taxi. During rush hour the subway is the quickest way to get across town and thankfully it wasn’t very crowded.

We actually went to a different airport than the one I had arrived in. Pudong is for international flights and Hongqiao is for domestic ones so we were at Hongqiao. The flight to Beijing was full and was on I think a 777 (two seats at the windows and five across the middle); anyway it was a big honkin’ plane. We were in something like row 60 so almost at the back which was bad because the turbulence was pretty bad. I was especially irked that the flight attendants didn’t take their seats but continued to serve food. You’d think this would have a calming effect on me but instead it has the opposite; I have no idea why. I got through it by sharing headphones with Apple on my iPod, playing her a selection of English songs I thought she might enjoy.

We arrived in Beijing around 9 at night and took a cab down deserted highways across the city. We exited at the Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium but unfortunately the lights were off. The aquatic center that looks like water on the outside was also closed but we still drove by. After that, we headed for the hotel where I participated in a conference call involving Austin and Hungary from midnight to 1:15. Bleh.

The next morning we visited the distributor and the branch office where I conducted a training session. We then had yet another monster meal with six other NI and distributor folks before Apple and I headed back to the airport via taxi. This was the taxi driver who decided to come to a dead-stop in the right-most lane so I could take a photo of the Bird’s Nest even though I had Apple explain that I was content to take photos from the moving car. Thankfully we made it to the airport without causing any wrecks.



Apple was actually staying in Beijing for an audit of the distributor so she made sure I had my ticket and was getting to security before she and I said goodbye and separated. Again, the hospitality from NI-Shanghai was great and I felt like no one wanted to be responsible for me having problems getting around, eh. I didn’t mind the attention but I had to continually remind them sometimes that I was used to traveling by myself in foreign locations. Oh well.

I arrived at my gate around 2 to wait for my 3:30 flight. At about 2:30, there was an announcement that our flight was going to be delayed for some unintelligible reason that I later figured out was because our plane was going to be arriving late to Beijing. It looked like the departure time had been moved back to 5:25. This was bad because I was supposed to meet Tracy and Yuki from NI-Shanghai for dinner so we might not be able to do it. After speaking with Tracy, we decided to play it by ear depending upon when I left.

Around 4 I looked out across the tarmac and, to my surprise, saw Air Force One sitting out there. Having never seen it in person and seeing it in a foreign country made me feel a bit patriotic like ‘yeah, that’s my President’s plane that’s sitting over there’. While reading my book, I glanced up every two minutes to see if the motorcade was pulling up.



About 5 the motorcade, with all of its black vehicles with flashing lights on top, did pull up. The plane was between me and the vehicles so I couldn’t see any people but I still felt even more lucky to have seen that. I’d seen Marine One (the helicopter that flies Obama to Andrews Air Force Base in DC) before while walking around Washington, D.C., but this was totally different. I was hoping to see the plane take off before my flight boarded.

The ticket agents started boarding us maybe ten minutes later. I usually try to get on planes towards the end anyway as a) I don’t want to be on the plane any longer than I have to and b) having only a backpack that can fit under the seat I’m not competing for space in the overhead bins so I stood around a while watching Air Force One. It didn’t move. Finally, I felt I couldn’t wait any longer and went to stand in line. As I did, I saw the plane start to move. Cool. The gangway was enclosed by glass so I had my ticket scanned, then stood in the gangway waiting to see which way the plane would take off. I heard the engine rev up and looked left then right. To the right I saw it cruising down the runway. And then it took off. I felt a sense of kinship to the President and his entourage not just because we were all Americans but because we were also taking flights leaving the Shanghai airport (I wonder if he even notices turbulence, eh). With a sigh of contentment, I boarded my flight.

The flight back was also quite turbulent but this time I was sitting in the middle of the plane so it was a bit better (i.e. I didn’t get the side to side motion quite as much as the rear). After landing in Shanghai, I was the first person to get out of the terminal and was immediately met by the NI driver who had arrived late on Saturday to pick me up. We headed past the insanely long but moving quite rapidly line of people waiting for taxis, got into the NI minivan and got on the freeway. At this point the driver received a call from Yuki who was trying to get in touch with me (I never could figure out how to set my China cell phone to vibrate so I kept missing calls) to inform me that Tracy was interviewing nannies and couldn’t make dinner. I told her that holy moly it was 8:15 and that thank you for offering to take me out to dinner but it would be best if I just headed straight for the hotel, had a quick bite to eat and went to bed. I hope I wasn’t rude but the logistics of getting us together were going to be crazy. And I did see her and chat the next day.

After a 45 minute drive we arrived back at my hotel where I rechecked in and retrieved the garment bag which I’d left so as to avoid checking a bag on the trip to Beijing. I had a small dinner in the hotel restaurant (which really just had the kitchen open as I had to eat in the waiting area of the restaurant). I was disappointed that the pizza joint was already closed but at least the restaurant served some garlic bread that tasted pretty decent (as well as some rice and fried pork).

I think I slept eight hours that night but I still didn’t feel that my body was 100% on China time. I repacked my stuff, checked out of the hotel and walked towards the office carrying my garment bag and backpack. To get to the office required walking in a roundabout way which to that point I’d had no problem doing. But with a 35 lb bag your thinking changes a little bit. There was a guy walking behind me as I passed the hedges that prevented me from taking a shortcut. I then heard some rustling of the bushes and then no more footsteps from the guy behind me. I turned around to see him cutting across the grass towards the NI building. I headed back to see where he’d crossed. After making one pass, I saw a very narrow opening in the hedge, plowed through it, probably breaking a few branches in the process and made it to the building saving myself maybe 1/3 of a mile of walking and at least seven minutes of walking time. Of course, most people would’ve had a cab take them to the office but, well, I’ll wait until I’m older to call a cab.

I worked at the office until 12:30 then took the NI minivan with Tracy to the airport. I had a flight with China Eastern to Los Angeles (LAX) and then with American to Austin. Taking off out of Shanghai was weird because due to the haze you couldn’t see too far. The iconic image though was the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center sticking up above the haze like the Eye of Barad-Dur from Lord of the Rings. Not long after that we ascended into the clouds and then above them which is always a bit thrilling. I slept for only 3.5 hours on the flight (I stayed awake so long at the beginning of the flight I thought the Ambien hadn’t worked) but that was ok because it gave me time to watch Cross of Iron and part of Porco Rosso (until the power on the laptop ran out).



LAX wasn’t too crazy though I had to get my bags and recheck them which is actually normal for coming back into the US. I have a beef with LAX though because unlike most airports where you can use power outlets on the walls to recharge your laptop they had instead specified power stations sponsored by an electronics company which shall remain nameless so I don’t tarnish their image. WHY THE HECK DO I NEED A SPECIFIC SPONSORED POWER STATION?!!! They had little seating near them and almost no room to just use the laptop while it was charging. What I ended up doing was leaving the laptop there and taking a seat across the hall but with a view of the laptop and just people-watched and kept my eye on it for like a half hour. At least it’s better than some airports like DFW which don’t have public power outlets at all. See, these are the things you think about when you travel over long distances as a business traveler. I even checked and responded to some e-mails after a while, sitting on the tile floor so I wouldn’t lose my precious charging spot (all sixteen outlets in the terminal were in use almost the whole time). Of course, if I had a Blackberry I probably would’ve been responding to e-mails before the plane taxied to the gate. Ironically, I talked with my seatmate, a lawyer for Motorola in San Diego, for the whole three hour flight to Austin so that I didn’t use the laptop at all. I arrived in Austin, took a $60 cab ride home (I didn’t feel I should be punished by having to wait an hour for SuperShuttle in order to save $30) and was greeted in the yard by Jennifer and the happiest little 14 lb pooch in Austin.

Hopefully I’ll be home for a while but with the job being how it is now I never know. I think my next scheduled foreign trip out would be in April or May to Hungary but I’ll need to see how budget shakes out. The next domestic one should be a trip to Orlando in March to speak at a conference (my first non-Austin speaking engagement so I can’t miss it).

Anyway, thanks for sharing this window into this part of my life. I’ll keep you posted on other trips as they come around. Hopefully you’ll be getting news from me about a certain new Beck entering the world before you get any trip e-mails. Hope all is well with you all.

Matt

Friday, November 20, 2009

Am I Jet Lagged? I'm Too Tired To Figure It Out - Post #3




Sunday, November 15, 2009

Shanghai, China

Hi Jet Lag. Nice to see you again. It’s 3:15am and I cannot for the life of me get to sleep. I haven’t had a jet lag problem on the trip thus far so I must say I’m a bit disappointed but at least I’m not working today (Sunday) and thus have another 24 hours to get my act together. I slept seven hours on the flight from Frankfurt to Shanghai and I guess the sleep was just too good.

What’s the positive about being up this early? It’s a World Cup qualifier day! Right now I’m watching a replay of the Russia-Slovenia qualifier and hopefully we’ll have a live game later. Here’s what’s going on today, at least for Europe:

http://www.fifa.com/worldcup/preliminaries/europe/matches/group=253457/index.html

I’ll be off eating breakfast by 8am though which I think will still be too early for the first leg of the Costa Rica – Uruguay playoff. Too bad.

But I digress...

Two notable things happened in Hungary on Friday. First, the sun came out. It was like seeing an old friend. I even made a special point of waiting for my morning taxi in a spot where I could catch some morning rays. And it stayed sunny most of the day, even warming up the place so I didn’t need a jacket outside (though, hot-blooded that I am, I think I was the only one). It was certainly a nice change.

The second notable thing was that I made the morning taxi lady laugh. See, the only way I get to and from the factory/office is by taxi. I can walk to the city center quite easily from the Manufacturing Apartment but the NI facility is about an hour’s walk, a little far to trek though I have a goal to do it someday. Therefore, I have to call taxis. NI actually has a contract with Fan Taxi, a local company, so that we get a discounted rate.

http://www.fantaxi.hu/index.php

They drive like maniacs and they take at least 15 minutes to get to the factory when you call but it beats walking or waiting for a bus.

So anyway, about the taxi lady. Every time I call the number, 888-444 (easy to remember), a lady answers and says something incomprehensible. In the evenings it’s a different lady but in the mornings it is always the same one. Now, the morning taxi lady is used to getting calls from NI people needing to be picked up. This factory has been around since 2001 and there have been hundreds of NI people who have visited Debrecen; I’d say on an average day there are at least five Austin people there, if not more, and that doesn’t count visitors from other countries. So the morning taxi lady is used to us. At first I didn’t know what to say so I would just say the address: ‘Zöldfa Teezen Kelentz’ (19 Green Tree Street). Then, on the last trip, I starting branching out, learning how to say the following:

‘Jó reggelt. A (insert address) na’l vagyok. Kerém egy taxit.’

This means ‘Good morning. I am at (x address). I would like a taxi please.’ I’m probably not the first Austin person to say something like this but I got the feeling during the last trip that the morning taxi lady got a kick out of me attempting to say these phrases and pronounce all the words correctly. After I was done, she would say in what I thought was an amused voice something else incomprehensible but which I figured always meant ‘sure thing strange American who thinks he can speak Hungarian’ after which I would say ‘köszonöm’ (thank you) and ‘hallo’ (goodbye) and she would reply ‘hallo’ or ‘szia’ (also goodbye/hello...like ‘aloha’).

So on Wednesday and Thursday I was back in the groove with my amiga the morning taxi lady. Friday was going to be my last time to call her for a while (until I come back, hopefully not until well after the baby arrives) so I figured I’d do something special. So, with the help of my good buddy Attila, I prepared a special monologue. It goes something like this:

‘Semmit sem szeretnék jobban, mint hogy egy taxi értem jöjjön és felvegyen.’

It means something to the effect of ‘it would give me the greatest pleasure in the world if you would please send a taxi.’ The goal was to make the lady laugh.

I tried it out on Thursday evening but the evening taxi lady and I don’t have the same connection as the morning taxi lady and I do so, after I finished what I thought was a credible job, there were two seconds of silence then a quick ‘köszonöm’ and that was it. I was undeterred and pretty certain the morning taxi lady would have a more positive reaction.

The next morning I finished packing, picked up the cute little white phone we have in the apartment and dialed 888-444.

Morning Taxi Lady: Fan Taxi xygsyzk;ljasyadsnok.
Me: Jó reggelt! (clearing throat) Semmit sem szeretnék jobban...
Morning Taxi Lady: (slight intake of breath and then chuckling)
Me (gaining confidence): ...mint hogy egy taxi értem jöjjön és felvegyen.’
Morning Taxi Lady: (more chuckling)
Me: Köszonöm! Hallo!
Morning Taxi Lady: Szia!

Made my week right there. I like to think that the bond between us is strong enough that the taxi driver that picked me up let her know that I had my bags with me and thus would not be speaking with her again on Monday. On the other hand, if he did let her know, I hope it didn’t ruin her weekend.

Uh oh, Russia just scored to take a 1-0 lead on Slovenia. The Chinese announcers aren’t very excited though, probably because it’s so early in the morning.

Work went well on Friday morning even though it seems I’m always, always in a hurry when I leave due to saying goodbye to people. This time it was mostly due to a last minute meeting but thems the breaks. I caught my 11:30 cab at 11:35 and the driver and I headed to Budapesht. I could’ve taken the train but the taxi is much faster, more convenient and allows me to stay at work longer. It’s also more expensive but with all the traveling I’ve been having to do I’m worth it. The driver spoke no English but was happy enough to humor me with my pitiful Hungarian, teaching me a few new words like ‘river’ and ‘sleep’. It’s fun to try to have a conversation with someone like that when the person is willing. For instance, he made a motion while he was driving like I could go to sleep if I wanted. He pointed at me and then made the whole putting your head on your hands to sleep motion. I laughed and said ‘nem’ for no. I then asked him what the word was in Hungarian. It’s apparently alsék (I know I’m mis-spelling it). So I pointed at him and said ‘nem alsék’ meaning basically ‘you don’t sleep while you’re driving’ and we both had a good laugh. I love that type of corny conversation.

The guy drove like a normal Fan taxi driver at about 150km per hour which is about 100mph. Good thing the highway was two lanes, in great repair and didn’t have too many vehicles on it. Still, some of the heavy trucks couldn’t have been going faster than 50mph which made things dicey at times.

Doh, Russia’s up 2-0. In the two-leg playoff, the team with the most goals scored in the two games advances. If they’re tied, it’s who scores the most road goals. Russia’s playing at home so they would be expected to win but Slovenia doesn’t want to be in a 2-0 hole playing at home. If that game is 3-1 in favor of Slovenia, Russia goes through by virtue of scoring a goal on the road.

The flight from Budapest to Frankfurt was an hour and twenty minutes. I wasn’t enthused to be returning to my least favorite airport but at least this time I had a 2.5 hour layover which would be plenty of time to catch my flight. There were lots of clouds but they were so high that once we started descending I had a fanastic view of the hilly German countryside. Between that and the sunset Frankfurt almost redeemed itself. Almost.

After we landed I found that I wasn’t going to have to change terminals to catch the Shanghai flight. Unfortunately I had to wait in the same lounge to find out my gate as the one I’d waited for the Chicago flight I couldn’t get onto almost three weeks before. The gate was pronounced around 6:20 for the 7:50 flight so I had plenty of time to get through Customs and arrive at the gate.

This was going to be a full flight. There were tons of people in the gate area and 95% of them appeared to be Chinese. Of the other 5%, I’ll bet almost all of them were European. There wouldn’t be much reason for an American to be flying from Germany to China unless the person was, like me, already there for a different reason. Even New York has direct flights to Shanghai so it’s always quicker to go over the Pacific. My name was called over the PA which gave me a slight scare (especially since I caught it while they were doing the announcement in German) but thankfully it was only to get my boarding pass and visa checked since the boarding pass was not issued at the Frankfurt airport. We left a half hour late but that was ok as at least we were leaving.

It was full, at least in my middle section of the plane. I had a window seat right over the wing so I’d have a crummy view but at least it was a view. I waited until we could start getting up, took out my contacts, popped an Ambien and, about 30 minutes later, went to sleep.

I think I slept seven hours total. Out of an 10.5 hour flight, that was pretty darn good. I was pleased. Of course, that may be why I’m up at 4:12am now but oh well. I woke up with about an hour and fifty minutes left in the flight, finished reading Jennifer’s book (which, darn it all, turned out to be ok but is the first of a series so left me hanging) and ate a breakfast of seafood and rice, yogurt and a roll with butter. Still, I feel that with Ambien I prefer flights that are either three hours or less or eat least eight hours. Less than eight and I wouldn’t feel comfortable taking an Ambien in case I’m still under its influence when it’s time to land.

Shanghai had a haze covering it. I don’t know if that’s normal or not but I’ll find out today. It made it tough to see the ground until we were at 4000 feet even though there were no clouds. We landed, deplaned, passed through Customs and I got my bag (yay, it didn’t get lost!). Upon leaving the baggage area, I passed through the phalanx of people awaiting travelers (relatives, friends and drivers). The branch office said they were going to provide a driver but there was no one there with my name on a sign. I wne through the line a second time, still didn’t see anyone. After fifteen minutes of waiting, I called one of my contacts at the office (Apple) and she found out that the driver thought I was arriving an hour later than I did. So after a 45 minute wait, my driver showed up, drove me to the hotel in a minivan and that was that.

I took an hour to get my stuff unpacked, check e-mail, etc., then set out to wander around and hopefully find dinner. The area where the branch office is located is a commercial area with little in the way of residences or associated amenities such as supermarkets. I did find one residential area with a market of small open shops. For all I knew I was the first American who had ever walked in there. It was a little creepy because it was already dark and the lighting wasn’t so great but I didn’t care. This was what I wanted to see, regular Chinese life. There were barbershops, small convenience stores, two outdoor pool halls, three fruit vendors and tons of little eating stalls for noodles and such. I would’ve liked to have stopped and eaten in one but a) not speaking or reading Chinese I’d probably make a complete fool of myself and b) I don’t know how much I can trust the food not to bother my sensitive Western stomach, eh. Oh, and c) because all the Chinese people eating in the place would think I was either crazy or an incompetent CIA agent.

Someone named Nejc just scored for Slovenia. I have no idea how to pronounce that. 2-1 Russia in the 88th minute.

I wanted to explore the residential areas away from the markets but as opposed to the very well-lit avenues I had been wandering on the residential streets had almost no lights. I have little fear when wandering around places but I’m not an idiot. I turned around and made a circuit back for the hotel. I was, however, able to buy three bananas, a pack of cookies and a tube of Colgate toothpaste (I love buying toiletries in other countries so I can have a daily reminder of where I’ve been). I have been unable to find dental floss anywhere, however, and I ran out on Tuesday. Hopefully my Chinese guides can assist in this endeavor later today.

Dinner was a pepperoni, ham and Italian sausage pizza in one of the hotel restaurants. I realize it is out of character for me to not eat the local cuisine for every meal but I am now the jaded traveler and I don’t care. Pizza is one of my joys in life and I will eat it when I feel like it, darnit. This would make the fourth time I’ve had it on this trip, actually. None of them have been particularly good but still, it’s good comfort food. Plus the restaurant was completely empty, allowing me to enjoy my pizza, Pepsi and my Sherlock Holmes book in peace. There wasn’t even any piped-in music. I couldn’t have asked for a better atmosphere.

And after 3.5 minutes of stoppage time, it’s Russia 2, Slovenia 1. The rubber match is in Maribor (I’ve never heard of it either) on Wednesday with the winner going to the World Cup.

Ooh...the next match on TV is Portugal and...who is this team in blue? They don’t have names on the backs of their jerseys so I can’t google ‘em. And they’re playing in Portugal. I’ll keep you posted.

BIH? Bosnia-Herzegovina?

What a great morning to have jet lag. This game is live. Go BIH!

Anyway, today I get a tour of Shanghai from Bruce and William (their English names, not their Chinese ones) and then dinner with the two of them and Apple. The Chinese have a thing about first names in that they’re really not that important. Most people have several, apparently, and people that work with English speakers choose English names to make it easier for us to pronounce their names correctly. There are some exceptions such as Dapang (dah-pahng) the branch manager but there are also Tracy, Apple, Forrest and Nelson. Ying Yu stuck with Ying Yu though. Here’s a great article about the Chinese and their names:

http://www.slate.com/id/2217001/

I’m looking forward to seeing Shanghai. It’s always better to have a local person guide you so that you learn so much more and see some cool things you might not have seen otherwise. The only downside is that you have no time to yourself for personal reflection to think ‘man, I’m in friggin’ China.’

I’ll let you all know how that goes.

Hope you’re all doing well and getting more sleep than I am. And before anybody makes the joke, I know this is all just practice for when Apple/Forrest Beck arrives.

5500 miles closer to home but still way too far away,

Matt

Halfway Done (But Still Far Away From Home) - Post #2





Thursday, November 12, 2009

Debrecen, Hungary

Hi everyone. I hope you're all doing well, are not too cold and are getting sufficient rainfall. I’m gonna crank out another e-mail before I hit the road mañana to Cha-cha-China. I hope you’re all doing well because I actually am. I’m feeling a lot better this trip and I think it’s mostly due to two things: 1) being able to accept my stepped-up role that may require me to take more trips and at more sudden notice and 2) the fact that I don’t have to spend part of this trip putting out fires and explaining things to my bosses and instead can concentrate on the actual work. Of course, I caused at least one of the fires myself but whatever. I still miss home but at least this time I’m not borderline depressed.

Anyway, there’s nothing particularly exciting to speak about on this trip since it’s been work work work so I’m going to write a piece on my love/hate affair with air travel. I apologize in advance if some of this repeats thoughts from earlier e-mails.

Airplanes are crazy things. How the heck a big piece of metal that weighs gosh-knows how many tons can actually get in the air and stay aloft is still mind-boggling to me. I think something along those lines every single time I travel. It is truly a marvel that I can fly from Austin to Denver and then Denver to Phoenix in the time it takes to drive from Austin to Fort Stockton. Or I can go to sleep over Lake Superior and wake up over the Baltic Strait. That people from so many different cultures can design, build and then fly those same planes to far-flung locales all over the world is just phenomenal. There’s almost something magical about it really. I especially feel it when flying over something really cool to look out upon such as the Rocky Mountains, the frozen St. Lawrence River or Russian volcanoes. I hope I never lose the sense of awe.

Actually, I hope I never lose the sense of awe because if I do there won’t be anything else positive about airplane travel. Well, that’s not totally true. I love being able to be away from everything for a few hours. No cell phones (at least not yet on the planes I fly). No internet (yes, that’s a good thing). Just you, the scenery (if it’s daylight and you have a window) and the ‘ol iPod serenading you. Spanish dance music just sounds better at 36,000 feet. If the flight is long enough and you have a movie-watching device such as a laptop, iPod or screen in the seat in front of you, you can catch up on some movies. The flight from Frankfurt to Boston on my last trip allowed me to watch The Hangover and State of Play, two decent movies I never would’ve seen otherwise. The food is usually not so great but occasionally it’s pretty good such as American Airline’s personal pizzas they seem to serve on every flight coming back to the US from Europe. And then there’s the Delta airlines safety lady telling me not to smoke on the plane:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m80ky_7SrPs

She’s the best. And sometimes there are the flight attendants who actually act like they’re enjoying their job such as the crew on the Northwest flight from Memphis to Austin who introduced themselves to us as Daryl and his lovely ex-wife Donna. Airport food can be hit-or-miss. The sandwiches all taste the same but sometimes you find a gem like the great pizza in Terminal 2 in Phoenix. Oh, and the feeling of exhiliration that comes when you get onto a plane for which you were on the stand-by list. I’ve only felt that when I was trying to catch an earlier flight just to get home earlier, having only once been on stand-by for a flight I just had to catch (the Frankfurt-Chicago flight I missed last time).

There are of course tons of bad things. Turbulence, for one. I hate turbulence. Why can’t the clear sky be as calm as it appears when you’re on the ground? I used to be horrible about it but now I’m rather stoic with the help of several things:

The ability to breathe only through my nose. The attorney I work with at work, who does yoga, taught me that one. It makes you feel more detached and not caring. Only problem is that it cuts off enough oxygen to your brain to make you almost pass out. It’s a constant battle between breathing little enough to still be detached but not too much to pass out. Though I’ve been on a couple of flights where passing out might have been easier.
The ability to relax. Sometimes it’s tough but if you just relax your body will absorb the vibrations and you’ll be less likely to feel them. If your body is taut and rigid, the vibrations will go right through you. You’re supposed to be like a shock absorber. And it works. Even when your palms are sweaty.
The knowledge that a certain wife and a certain pooch make my life very happy. You all make my life happy too but I find it hard to think about you when the plane is bouncing around like a pinball.
Knowledge of turbulence. For instance, when your stomach goes into your throat, the plane most likely has only dropped a couple of feet. Also, that the plane wants to stay level. It’s its natural position. That planes are extremely safe. It seems almost every country has an airline and there are at least 29 of them that have never had a fatality including Air Jamaica, Air New Zealand, Finnair, Royal Jordanian and Qantas. I had to remember that one when flying on the Polish airline. That the air at higher altitudes is thinner and the turbulence isn’t as bad. That pilots and flight attendants are not insane for wanting to ride around in planes as part of their job.
Electronic entertainment options, meaning the iPod, laptop or television showing a movie. You can’t block out the turbulence but having something else to concentrate on definitely helps. Books don’t work though. I’ll know I’m a really good flyer when I can read during turbulence.

I still can’t stand it but I’m not as bad as I used to be. We hit a hard patch between Warsaw and Budapest in a small plane (but not too small) in the dark. I was in the back which is the worst place to be. I prefer the middle which is supposed to be more stable. Whether it is or not isn’t important; what’s important is that I THINK it’s stable. Then, when I’m in the middle, I can always think that ‘well, it’s pretty bad up here but those poor schmucks in the back must be really feeling it’ and when I’m in the back I can think ‘well, if this is only as bad as it gets, the people in the middle must not be feeling anything at all’. Maybe I’m crazy but it really helps.

Ooh, Ambien is another good thing. I heartily endorse it, at least for flying. I took it 10 minutes after taking off from Chicago and was asleep within a half hour, before they even served dinner (at 11pm at night!). I was out for a full six hours and didn’t even have any weird dreams. I woke up with an hour and fifty-one minutes left in the flight. I was ecstatic. Here’s hoping I can repeat my success on the Frankfurt to Shanghai leg. That one might be so long though that I might take a second one right after I wake up from the first (just kidding Mom).

Ooh, I just checked the intinerary for traveling from Frankfurt to Shanghai and it’s 11 hours. Am I crazy for thinking that’s not too bad?

Connections and layovers can be pretty lame. Some airports, like Chicago’s O’Hare, are sometimes pretty difficult to figure out where to go. Some require you to walk a loooooong way with your luggage. Some don’t have any place to get something to eat, especially after 8pm on a Sunday night. The European airports don’t like to tell you more than 30 minutes in advance which gate is yours, requiring you to sit in a big open area with tons of other people constantly glancing up at a big board showing the flights. Too many airports require you to go through security when you’re just passing through. London Heathrow used to allow you to go through security with only one piece of carry-on luggage, meaning that if you were carrying two you had to somehow shove everything into one. Some airports are quiet but too many others have airport CNN blaring so loudly you can’t get away from it (Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson is the worst offender I’ve found). Some don’t have enough seating for departing flights, requiring people to sit in the hallway while waiting for the flight. European airports love to load everybody at once instead of calling out row numbers or groups to board singly. Everybody just gets up and tries to shove on (well not literally but you get the idea). I’m really interested to see how the Shanghai and Beijing airports are.

That reminds me, here’s a random video of a plane landing in St. Maarten. I love this video even though I don’t like flying because the runway pretty much abuts the beach:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksmDuXO_k6E

Or check out this mountain landing in Tegucigalpa, Honduras:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAxAso8xSo0

Anyway, the flights from Phoenix to Chicago to Warsaw to Budapest were ok. Didn’t see much of Warsaw since I was confined to the airport but was sucked into buying a hunk of shrink-wrapped cheese that I thought was some sort of meat pie. I paid with a credit card in their local currency, the zloty, without knowing what the exchange rate was. I hope it wasn’t too expensive because otherwise my boss might be mad since I expense all my food (one of the benefits of the travel is that we save money on the grocery bill while I’m gone). I only saw one woman with hair dyed so red you it was blinding but that was all I needed to remind me that, yes, I was in Eastern Europe again. Here are a couple of photos to give you an idea:

http://k53.pbase.com/u35/chmoss/upload/31674264.2004070606.12.16DSC_3615webbed.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/3/3115399_169c82b150.jpg

Monday evening found me in Budapest frantically searching for a lint roller. Since my luggage is lost so often (sorry, ‘delayed in transit’) and I had an important government meeting on Tuesday morning, I wore my suit sans jacket for the flights from Phoenix to Budapest. Problem was the blanket I used for sleeping on the Warsaw flight covered my shirt in lint. It was a wedding party present from Scott and Cheryl which made it kind of funny. Anyway, the grocery stores of downtown Budapest don’t sell lint rollers so I finally had to borrow some packing tape from the front desk of my hotel. What was really funny was that when I arrived to the hotel, the first thing I did was call Jennifer at work to ask her what to do, har! This was after asking the guys at the hotel’s front desk who recommended I go buy some detergent and put it in the washer; they were just as clueless as I was.

The luggage didn’t get lost though, at least not this time. Though someone had evidently rifled through it since the zipper was partially unzipped. Nothing was missing since thankfully I had everything of value with me.

The meeting went well and I caught a train with our attorney to Debrecen. No train shenanigans this time as the attorney did all the work. We arrived in Debrecen at 4, went to the factory and worked until 7:00. Worked from 8:30 to 8 yesterday but left at 6:30 tonight which was good. Problem is when you leave work late you sometimes don’t get to the grocery store before it closes and our apartment was almost out of toilet paper and soap. Luckily the local place closes at 9 so I made it last night. Tonight I went out with my friend Melinda to a local coffee bar for a hot chocolate and piece of cake. Apparently the cake was made of some sort of plant which, in sufficient quantities, gives you a mild high but Melinda didn’t know what the name is in English (I presume she knows the word ‘hemp’, eh). She also tried teaching me the fourteen Hungarian vowels but we stopped at é. Hungarian is very difficult but I’m trying to learn more.

It's cold and rainy in Hungary. I haven't seen the sun since descending into Warsaw. At least it's not freezing. Though then I might get to see some snow. Not this time it seems but sometime I will. I actually don't care about the cold and rain; it's the whole 'getting dark at 4:30 thing' that's really disconcerting. Good thing I'm working really late all the time.

I’ve been able to call Jennifer every night too which is good. It’s great especially when I hear BB barking in the background at Wilbur the next door neighbor’s cat (her name is really Precious but we prefer Wilbur). I used a company calling card in Budapest and the Magic Jack here in the Debrecen apartment (which makes it like a local call).

http://www.magicjack.com/7/index.asp

Pretty cool. Problem is Debrecen is seven hours ahead of Austin so I can’t call her until 11pm. Oh well. Tonight I can call her a little earlier, as soon as I finish this e-mail. Then I’ll pack up my schtuff again and call it a day. For China I’ll have to call her in the morning there I think which will be later in the evening Austin time.

Tomorrow I’ll be at the factory/office until 11:30am, then take a taxi 2 hours to Ferihegy airport in Budapest. Then it’s off to Frankfurt and then Shanghai. Shanghai should be interesting. Two people from the office have volunteered to guide me around on Sunday so I hope to see a ton of interesting stuff and be able to write an actual travel report for this trip. Brooks, our precocious five-year old neighbor, requested that I bring him back an eggroll. If you want me to look out for anything interesting to bring back, please let me know. No fake Rolexes though, sorry.

I hope to check in with you guys next week but we’ll see how that goes.

I hope all of you are doing well

About to be in transit again,

Matt

Matt's Travelogue (Yes, I'm Back On The Road) - Post #1



Sunday, November 8, 2009

Phoenix, Arizona, USA

Hi everyone. I’m on the road again. After two weeks at home with Jennifer and the Beebs, I’ve boarded another plane and left. This trip’s a doozy:

Fri-Sun Phoenix, AZ for our buddy Scott Fillian’s wedding
Mon-Fri Hungary again
Sat-Thurs Shanghai, China

Fourteen days of travel. Around the friggin’ world. The bookends of the trip were planned in advance but the Hungary leg came up quite recently. Actually, I’d be there now if it weren’t for the wedding. I have some time to kill before leaving for the airport (where I’ll hopefully find a TV to watch my beloved Texans take on those dastardly Indianapolis Colts) and I don’t have much travel news to report so I’m going to let you in on what my travel process is like.

First item on the agenda is always making sure that you have your arrangements taken care of at home, meaning paying bills. In this world of on-line bill paying, that’s not so difficult. Let’s move on to #2.

Second is figuring out what to pack. I keep telling myself I need to make a big list of everything I take so that I don’t forget anything but I usually don’t forget anything major so it’s not a prob. Having a wife help you make sure you have everything helps too (BB, however, is useless on this point). Here’s the list:

- Clothes. There are two types of clothes you need to take: work and personal. Work clothes depends on the location you’re visiting. For example, Hungary is very laid-back so you can wear a t-shirt and jeans to work if you like though I usually wear at least a polo shirt. In Shanghai, they only wear jeans on Fridays so I’m packing khakis to accompany the polos. This trip is a little odd in that I have to visit a Hungarian government agency so I’m actually packing a suit. This isn’t so bad except that I pack it in one of those big fold-over suitcases that you can hang up which means I have to carry it instead of roll it like most suitcases these days. I was hellbent on not having to check two bags so that sucker is pretty full. Personal clothes includes jeans, basketball shoes and a couple of t-shirts with buttons at the top so they look a little more professional, eh. It will be cold in Hungary and Beijing (a side trip to visit our distributor there) so I have two jackets, a headband for my ears and gloves, just in case.
- Laptop and power supply. Not only necessary for work (I’m almost useless without it) but for entertainment purposes as well. I’m listening to music while typing this e-mail right now, actually.
- Books. I’m always paranoid that I’m going to run out of reading material while on trips and be stuck watching airport CNN or something so I take plenty, usually three. They have to be paperbacks to minimize the weight and volume which narrows the selection but I’m usually able to find stuff at the library. This trip, being so long, requires five. I try to have a mix of genres and reading levels (i.e. page-turners vs. more high-brow stuff, eh). This trip has the following:
o The Road To Samarkand, by Patrick O’Brian, the guy who wrote all the Master and Commander books I love so much. This goes in the ‘easy-to-read’ category.
o Earth, by David Brin. Brin wrote The Postman, the book that was made into a not-so-great movie with Kevin Costner back in the late-90s. I read it on my last trip and it was decent so I figured another Brin book wouldn’t be a bad idea.
o Atherton: The House of Power, by Patrick Carman. I usually take a book from Jennifer’s library to read (high reading level, not a picture book, eh!). It serves two purposes: 1) it reminds me of her when I read it and 2) I can describe the plot to her so that she can relate to kids who check it out without actually reading it (though she has read tons of others). Sometimes the books are good and sometimes not (I’m looking at you Leven Thumps and the Gateway to Foo!).
o A book of Thomas Hardy’s short stories. This goes in the high brow category and, to be honest, this will be the last one I read.
o A book of Sherlock Holmes short stories that I found on our bookshelves at home.
- DVDs. I prefer watching movies while flying and reading while in the airports so I need movies to watch on the ‘ol laptop in case the plane doesn’t have TVs on it. Most of the international flights do but not all of ‘em. I usually take a Netflix DVD with me and three from our home collection. The Netflix representative is Sam Peckinpah’s Cross of Iron and the other three are The Man Who Would Be King (fantastic epic movie from the 70s), Porco Rosso (great Studio Ghibli animated flick) and Bedknobs and Broomsticks (will remind me of home and is quite light-hearted).
- iPod. It’s really weird that I used to travel without this thing since I listen to music so much anyway. I usually use it on planes to listen to podcasts like ‘Wait, Wait, Don’t Tell Me’ and ‘Hang Up And Listen’ and listen to music through the laptop when in hotel rooms and apartments.
- Camera. How else would I be able to share with you exactly what stuff looks like as well as remember it for myself?
- Snacks. Very important as I eat a lot of small meals throughout the day. I usually buy an 18 pack of granola bars and something else snacky. It used to be Little Debbie Oatmeal Creme pies but I’ve moved on to trail mix of peanuts, raisins and choco chips. I ate too much trailmix on the last trip so this one has granola bars, six breakfast cookies and a bag of ginger snaps (popularized by Jennifer and my road trip to Pennsylvania this past summer).
- Cell phone and charger. I now have a phone for work that can make international calls so my trips are no longer cell phone holidays. Oh well.
- Bathroom stuff. That’s all pretty pedestrian except for having a small enough bottle of contact fluid to make it past security in the airport. My bottles are all 12 oz which is 9 oz too big so this time I bought a ‘travel kit’ with a 3 oz bottle. I have to take contact fluid and the bathroom stuff in my carry-on so that I’m not totally hosed when my luggage decides to visit Buenos Aires.
- A memento of home. This is something new but I felt it was necessary. Just a little something to put up in my hotel room or apartment to remind me of Jennifer, BB and Austin. This time it’s a little stuffed scarecrow which was the handiest thing at the time when I asked Jennifer the night before for something. I’m now thinking a framed photo would’ve worked better but then again it probably would’ve gotten damaged in transit.
- Power and plug converters. We have a small set of plug converters with a power converter at work so I always have to take them along on foreign travel. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to plug anything into the wall and my electric razor, cell phone and camera battery charger would get fried (the laptop power supply has its own power converter). For this trip I have different plugs for Hungary and China.
- Passport. For this trip I had to get a visa to visit China. Thankfully you can send your passport off to a processing service who take care of it for you.
- Sleeping equipment. I always take earplugs and sometimes take an eye mask. Scott and Cheryl Fillian (congrats guys!) gave me as a wedding party present a US Airways sleep kit complete with blanket, inflatable neck pillow, ear plugs and eye mask. The blanket even has the US Airways logo on it. The only thing missing was the lifetime supply of Ambien.

Um, I think that’s it. There might be another thing or two but I’ve already packed my big foldover suitcase and I’m not going to open for the benefit of this e-mail. I used to pack way more stuff way back when but now only have the essentials. For example, I took a pair of binoculars with me to South Korea and India in 2005.

Guess that’s it for prep. Now I’ll clue you in on some business travel stuff. It’s not as glamorous as it sounds. Sure, it sounds and is fantastic to have someone else pay for you to fly to crazy foreign locales. But here’s the thing: you don’t really get to enjoy them much unless you schedule some vacation time. For example, if all goes well, I will land in Budapest at 7pm Monday night and be on the phone for an hour or so discussing a presentation that will be given bright and early the next morning. I will then travel to Debrecen via taxi, making it there perhaps in time to stop by the office where I may work until six or seven. I will be expected to handle issues occurring in Austin and perhaps other places such as Japan. When Austin is done for the day around 5pm, it’s midnight in Hungary. It’s not so bad because you sometimes think that you, being far away from home, don’t have much to do. When I’m in airports, I’m checking e-mail and now I can be reached by cell phone. The airplane is really the only place where you are truly out of touch. And I don’t even have a Blackberry. You are on the clock the entire time you are gone because you are not at home. I have been away from home long enough so I’m not taking any extra vacation time on this trip. I will have a free Sunday in Shanghai but that’s due to traveling over a weekend anyway. And thankfully I will have someone from the branch office to be my guide and hopefully avoid coming back with a stash of fake Rolex watches, eh.

Anyway, it looks like it’s time to check out of the hotel, return the tuxedo and head to the airport so I’ll finish up and send this now. I hope you are all doing well. I have accepted that my role is to be the big dog to go on these trips but that does not necessarily make it easier to be away when your wife is six months pregnant and your dog is so adorable. But there are millions and millions of people who have it worse so I will have a great trip and be home in two weeks. Barring a major work crisis, I shouldn’t have to hit the road for anything else until the baby arrives.

In transit,

Matt